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diff --git a/02-19-scoring-bread.md b/02-19-scoring-bread.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..58864d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/02-19-scoring-bread.md @@ -0,0 +1,165 @@ +#### Scoring Bread + +**What is scoring?** “Scoring” is the word used to describe the cuts +made in a loaf of bread before it is baked. Some breads are not +scored. For example many loaves baked in pans are not. However, almost +all free-formed “hearth breads” are scored. + +**When is scoring done?** Scoring is generally performed just prior to +loading the loaves in the oven. French rye breads (pains de siegle) +are sometimes scored right after shaping, before proofing. + +**Why are breads scored?** Intentionally creating a weak spot on the +surface of the loaf prevents the loaf from bursting at weak spots +created during shaping. + +The type of scoring performed controls the direction in which the +bread will expand during “oven spring.” + +The pattern of cuts made, the angle at which they are made and the +depth of the cuts influences the rate of expansion and the formation +of an “ear” - a raised flap of crust at the edge of a cut. + +The pattern of cuts can create a pleasing visual pattern on the +surface of the loaf. While there are some very traditional patterns, +for example for baguettes, the baker can use the scoring pattern to +identify the type of bread or to create an unique pattern +that identifies the loaf as coming from his or her oven. + +**What do you use to score bread?** The blade used to score bread is +often referred to as a lame (pronounced "lahm.") This is simply a +French word with means “blade.” Breads may be scored with straight or +curved razor blades, either held in the hand or mounted on a handle. +Scoring may be performed with other sharp, straight blades, even with +a straight razor. Some bakers prefer serrated blades. + +For some types of scoring, a straight blade is preferred. Straight +bladed knives are preferred for cuts made with the blade held +perpendicular to the loaf's surface. This sort of cut is generally +used for round loaves ("boules"). For other types of scoring, a curved +blade works better. Curved lames are generally used for long breads +like baguettes which are scored with cuts parallel to the long axis of +the loaf. + +Video on Choosing a Blade: <http://youtu.be/vF7eFluzHXc>. + +**How are the cuts made?** The scoring stroke should be firm, rapid, +smooth and decisive. For the beginner, it may help to take "practice +swings" or to visualize the movements and totally focus one's +attention before making the cuts. Understanding the functions of +scoring and the effects of the variables described can help, but there +is no substitute for experience. In this respect, scoring bread is no +different from an athletic skill or any other art or craft. (Tourist: +"Please, sir, can you tell me how to get to Carnegie Hall?" New +Yorker: "Practice, practice, practice.") + +The cuts should generally be ¼ to ¼ inch deep. A wet, +sticky dough requires a more shallow cut than one would make +in a dryer dough. + +**Scoring a boule (round loaf):** The angle the blade of the knife +makes with the surface of the loaf is important in determining how the +cut will open up. If you want the cuts to spread equally from the cut +and to open quickly, as is traditional with round loaves (boules), the +knife should be held vertically – at 90 degrees to the surface of the +loaf. + +Video on Scoring a Boule: <http://youtu.be/gnL7mvR9wFg>. + +Besides the "tic-tac-toe" pattern, boules can be scored with diamond +patterns, simple crosses or much more elaborate and creative patterns. + +**Scoring a long loaf (bâtard):** If you want the cuts to spread more +slowly and create an "ear," as is generally desired with long loaves +(baguettes and bâtards), the knife blade should be held at a shallow +angle with the surface of the loaf, at about 20-30 degrees or so. Many +find using a curved blade helps make this type of cut. The blade is +held with the concave surface facing up (away from the loaf). A flap +of dough is created that will lift up to create an “ear” as the loaf +expands and, by lifting gradually, slows the expansion of the loaf. +This prolongs the time during which new areas of dough are exposed to +the direct heat of the oven and results in greater overall expansion – +a larger "bloom." + +Video on Scoring a Bâtard: <http://youtu.be/UC5HLCWAyMo>. + +**The effect of scoring on loaf shape:** +Michael Suas, in his book "Advanced Bread & Pastry," provides some +information about how scoring patterns influence loaf shape. Scoring +is not just to make a visually pretty design on the top of a loaf. It +is also how the baker controls the direction in which the loaf +expands. This impacts the shape of the loaf cross section (rounder or +more oval), the height of the loaf and, for a boule, whether it stays +round or ends up more oblong. + +According to Suas, long loaves like bâtards and baguettes are +traditionally scored parallel to their long axis. This may be a single +long cut or multiple cuts that are almost parallel and overlap +somewhat (for ¼ to ¼ of their length, generally). This pattern +promotes sideways expansion of the loaf, resulting in an oval cross +section when the loaf is sliced. + +For breads with high-rye content which have lower gluten and less oven +spring, the traditional objective is to encourage a higher rise in the +oven spring resulting in a rounder cross section. This is achieved by +"sausage" or "chevron" cuts. + +Boules are scored in a variety of patterns with differing effects on +how the loaf expands. The common "tic-tac-toe" pattern and a simple +cross will direct the expansion upward. More complex patterns like +diamonds result in a relatively flatter loaf. + +One of most interesting effects is that scoring a boule with multiple +parallel cuts encourages expansion at a right angle to the cuts. This +results in an oblong loaf shape. + +**What's the point of an ear? Controlled bloom!:** +This topic is not about the auricular anatomy of elves (or Vulcans). +It's about scoring breads. + +Scoring loaves creates a visually pleasing pattern, and it helps +control the expansion of the loaf as it bakes. + +What Suas called "the classic cut" is parallel to the long axis of a +baguette or a bâtard. The cut is made with the blade at a shallow +angle to the surface of the loaf. The cut should be shallow - about +1/4 inch deep. Paradoxically, this shallow cut results in the flap +lifting better than a deeper cut would, thus forming a nice "ear." +Hamelman (pg. 80) points out that "a deep cut will simply collapse +from its own weight." + +The angle of the blade is important. "If the angle is not achieved and +the cut is done with the blade vertical to the loaf, the two sides of +the dough will spread very quickly during oven spring and expose an +enormous surface area to the heat. The crust will begin to form too +soon - sometimes before the end of oven spring - penalizing the +development of the bread. If the cut is properly horizontal, the sides +of the loaf will spread slower. The layer of dough created by the +incision will partially and temporarily protect the surface from the +heat and encourage a better oven spring and development." (Suas, pg. +116.) + +**In summary:** in order to achieve an optimal bloom in baguettes and +bâtards, one must attend to 3 variables when scoring them: + +1. The cuts should be almost parallel to the long axis of the loaf. + +2. The blade should be held at about a 30 degree angle to the surface +of the loaf. + +3. The depth of the cut should be shallow - about 1/4 inch. + +Variable shading of the bloomed crust confirms that the +desired slow but prolonged opening of the cut during oven +spring occurred. + +**A final word:** +This tutorial focused on the mechanics of scoring, but the other steps +in bread making impact the behavior of the cuts you make and the final +appearance of your loaves. In fact, every single step, from your +choice of ingredients and their proportions – your formula – to how +you steam your oven plays a role in how your cuts will open. Your best +looking loaves will result from a series of choices that are mutually +dependent, where how you score a loaf takes into account the other +choices you have made about the formula, mixing, fermentation, +shaping, proofing and baking. |
