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diff --git a/02-06-leavening.md b/02-06-leavening.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..900d615 --- /dev/null +++ b/02-06-leavening.md @@ -0,0 +1,84 @@ +#### Leavening + +There are all kinds of ways the leaven breads. Here, we’ll be talking +about two leavens: commercial yeasts and sourdoughs. + +##### Commercial Yeast + +The three most common types of commercial yeast are: + +**Fresh yeast:** Truth be told, fresh yeast, which is also known as cake +yeast, is hard for home bakers to find these days. They are sold as +little “cakes” that must be kept refrigerated, and they go bad after a +few days. Many professional bakeries, however, still use fresh yeast, +and so many bread formulas are written with fresh yeast in mind. +Typically, breads that rise for 1.5 to 2 hours in bulk and 1 to 1.5 +hours shaped call for fresh yeast at 2% of total flour weight. + +Many recipes use much, much less yeast than that, however, and they +ferment for much longer, which gives the bread more flavor. + +**Active dry yeast:** This is the kind of yeast that you’re most likely to +find in your grocery store. Typically, you’ll want to use about 1 to 2 +tsp per loaf and, if the formula calls for fresh yeast, you’ll need to +measure out 40% of that weight to convert to active dry. + +Active dry yeast needs to be “proofed” before using, which means it +needs to be dissolved in about ¼ to ½ cup of lukewarm water (about 90 +degrees F or so). + +**Instant yeast:** This is what many amateur bakers prefer to use. In +grocery stores you'll often find it labels "Rapid Rise Yeast" or +"Bread Machine Yeast." It looks like active dry yeast, but it retains +many more living yeasts in each grain. As a result, there's no need to +proof it – just add the yeast directly to the dry ingredients. If the +formula calls for fresh yeast, measure out 1/3 of that weight for +instant yeast. If the recipe calls for active dry yeast, cut the +measurement by about 25 percent. + +##### Sourdough + +Before the 19th century, sourdough was really the only leavening +available (unless you’re talking about salt rising bread, which uses +bacteria alone – a leavening with which this book does not deal). +Sourdough is really not that hard to work with – as some Internet sage +once wrote, “People who thought the earth was flat made bread like +this for thousands of years.” + +First, what is this stuff? Sourdough starter is a stable symbiotic +culture of wild yeasts and bacteria. The yeasts break down starches +into sugars, which the bacteria eat. The bacteria, on the other hand, +create an acidic environment that kills off competitors to the yeasts. +The yeasts were almost certainly already living on the grains when +they were out in the field. As for the bacteria, that’s a trickier +question, but the consensus seems to be that they come from us – +studies have failed to isolate Lactobacillus Sanfranciscensis anywhere +except in long-lived sourdough starters and on human teeth. The +individual mix of yeasts and bacteria varies from starter to starter, +and region to region. It's part of their charm; every starter is +unique, and produces bread that tastes somewhat different from those +produced with other starters. + +Sourdough starters work more slowly than commercial yeasts, which are +much more concentrated that starters and have been carefully selected +for their gas production. Typically, a sourdough loaf will rise for at +least three to four hours in the bowl and will then need +another two to three hours as a shaped loaf before it will be +ready to bake. + +Not all sourdough breads are sour. The French pain au levain and +Flemish desem breads are typically not very sour at all, while San +Francisco-style sourdoughs and many German ryes are very sour, indeed! + +Different starters will produce different levels of sourness, but by +far the most important factor in a sourdough bread's flavor is +temperature. If the dough is allowed to ferment at 80 to 85 degrees or +is allowed to rise slowly overnight in the fridge or in a cool room +(35 to 50 degrees F), the bread will have a markedly stronger flavor +than a sourdough that rose at room temperature (65 – 70 degrees F). + +Sourdough breads generally keep well, because their acid content slows +down the staling process. In addition, the acid in sourdough both +reduces the impact of bread on one's blood sugar and also neutralizes +phytic acid in whole wheat breads. Phytic acid prevents the body from +absorbing many nutrients. |
